Cup Square Bolts (Coachbolts) 10mm or 12mm x 90mm long, qty.4
Penny Washers, to fit coachbolts, qty. 12 Matching fibre/rubber washers if available.
Lock-nuts, Nylon insert, to fit coachbolts, qty.4
Wood screws, 6mm x 90mm long, qty. 6
Wood screws, 6mm x 60mm long, qty. 8
Cord, rope or webbing; approx 1m but allow a little extra for the knots if using thick rope
Unless they have a full thread, wrap the shaft of all bolts with approx. four layers of masking tape (approx six inches long), to match or exceed the size of the threads.
Use a fibre washer if possible, or glue two penny washers together, either way, get the widest washer available.
Marking out / construction
Measure c. 45mm down from top of back leg - Part B for bolt hole.
Line up front and back legs (Parts F + B), drill bolt hole through both legs for top pivot.
Fit coach-bolt/cup-square bolt through top hole on front leg. A sharp tap with a hammer should settle the 'square' into the timber of the leg. Fit two washers + a fibre washer, then the back leg.
When held upright, the chamfered feet should point in opposite directions, and when opened out, the feet should sit flat on the floor. Fit third washer, and loosely fit a temporary (plain) nut.
The back legs require a slight chamfer at the top, otherwise the corner will protrude in front of the front legs. Stand the legs upright and fully open, and mark the protrusion with a pencil. Dissassemble the legs and remove the top corner of the back legs, as marked.
Measure (68mm / 2) + 36 = 70mm (half the depth of your front leg plus the full thickness of the cross-bar) from back (rounded) end of support arm for bolt hole
Fit coach-bolt/cup-square bolt through lower hole on front leg. Fit two washers + a fibre washer, then a support arm, long edge uppermost, chamfered edge to rear. Fit third washer, and loosely fit a temporary (plain) nut. NB. The washers are intended to act as spacers between the various parts, fibre or rubber washers help to stop the joints swinging too freely.
Fit top cross-bar Part C across the top of the front legs, and fit a fillet in the corner that this creates.
Fit the front cross-bar D, behind the front legs, so that it is a tight fit above the support arms.
Ensure frame is folded, fit rear cross beam E, circa two inches / 50mm above the position of the front cross-bar.
Open the stand, and fit a restraining rope. (The photos show stands fitted with two ropes, but one alone is perfectly adequate.) The rope should not be taught, as it is merely a safety feature to prevent the stand accidentally opening too far. For outdoor use, drill peg holes in all four feet, and dip the feet in an appropriate wood preservative.
Both the front and back legs have chamfered feet - double check that these face in opposite directions before fitting locknuts to all bolts.
All joints are intended to be screwed either from the rear of the stand, or from the top if the stand - this does mean that the length of most of the screws is important, but dramatically reduces the chance of damaging an arrow through hitting a screw-head.
Ensure all bolts are tight before use - ideally there should be a little resistance in each joint, to prevent accidental injury from swinging parts.